Tubing

Most all earmold tubing, at one time or another, will require replacement. The following steps will provide a guide to help you with the retubing of various earmold materials and tube styles.

TUBE LOCK - 1. Remove th old tube lock tube by carefully pulling it out. 2. Insert the new tube lock tube into the mold. 3. With an applicator tool, or similar probe device, push the lock to the proper depth. 4. Trim the tube flush with the end of the canal.

TUBE LOCK PLUS - 1. Remove the old tube by carefully pulling it out. 2. Insert the new tube lock plus tube. 3. Pull the quilled end of the tube until the plastic lock is properly seated, and the outer ring is flush against the mold. 4. Trim the tube.

GLUED IN P.S. 2000 MOLDS - 1. Remove the old tube. There are two ways to do this: (a.) cut the tube flush against the mold, then with a high speed motor, or Dremel, burr out the remaining tube from the sound borer (b.) using a small screw driver or similar tool, insert the flat blade end between the mold and tube. Slide it all the way around the mold, cutting through the old glue. Now pull the tube out.
2. Insert a new coated tube (or switch to a Tube Lock plus and refer to the proper instructions). 3. Inject RTV silicone around the tube and let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes.
4. Trim the tube.

ACYLIC/VINYL CEMENTED, ALL THE WAY THROUGH TUBES -
1. Remove the old tube. Pull the old tube out if possible, if not, cut it flush with the mold and use a reamer to remove the remaining tube. 2. Double check to make sure the sound bore is free from obstruction. 3. Use a pipe cleaner coated with tubing cement to coat the inside of the sound bore. 4. dip the quilled end of the tube into the tubing cement for approximately three seconds and quickly insert into the mold. 5. Blow air through the tube removing any remaining cement and trim the tube.

PART WAY THROUGH TUBES - 1. Remove old tube using the above steps one and two. 2. Cut tube to desired length. If the tube is cut where there is a change in direction of the sound bore, make sure the tube is cut at an angle that allows an unrestricted flow of sound. 3. Use a pipe cleaner coated with tubing cement to coat the inside of the sound bore. 4. Dip the cut end of the tube into the cement for approximately three seconds then quickly insert into the mold. 5. Blow air through the tube to expel any remaining cement.

C.F.A. - 1. Hold the CFA connector as close to the ear mold as possible. Twist it back and forth while pulling, until it is removed. 2. To insert, twist it back and forth while pushing in.

ELBOWS - 1. Pull the old tube off the end of the elbow while the elbow is still in the mold. 2. Add a new piece of tube to replace the old one.

PROBLEM WITH INSERTION OF THE MOLD - 1. Check the ear mold canal for a bulbous portion. This would be an area where the canal gets wider or larger in diameter toward the end of the canal. 2. Either shorten the canal or grind the problem area. 3. Smooth out all ground areas, and round down any sharp edges.

TIGHT FIT OR SORE SPOT - 1. Determine the location of the problem. Use a Q-Tip or probe in the patients ear to pinpoint the exact location of the problem. 2. On the corresponding spot on the ear mold, slightly relieve the material in that spot. Use of an ear mold lubricant will aid in ease of insertion of the mold on the tender areas.

HINT: Use blue flex stone with soft materials like PS 2000.